- Podcast

Podcast 31: Jeff Vargen – Wings of the Ultracrepidarian – A Story from Behind the Lens

Jeff Vargen

In this podcast interview, Kevin Roet speaks with filmmaker Jeff Vargen about the unexpected journey that led him to produce the documentary Assault on El Capitan. Jeff explains how he was initially “roped into” the project after being shown a few video clips taken by climber Ammon McNeely during the second ascent of Wings of Steel. At the time, the route was surrounded by controversy.  With its original first ascent long considered dubious by parts of the climbing community. What began as a small side project quickly grew into something much larger.  As Jeff realised the importance of documenting the story accurately and thoughtfully.

As the project developed, those initial clips evolved into a full-length documentary. Jeff describes how the film expanded to include interviews with members of the Stone Masters.  As well as Mark Smith and Richard Jensen, the original first ascensionists of Wings of Steel. By bringing together these different perspectives, Jeff aimed to present a balanced and comprehensive account of one of climbing’s most debated routes. Rather than taking a definitive stance.  The documentary sought to give space to voices that had rarely been heard and to challenge long-standing assumptions within the climbing world.

Jeff also speaks candidly about the backlash he faced after releasing the film. He recounts receiving intense criticism and even threats for choosing to tell this story.  Highlighting how deeply emotional and divisive the topic remained decades later. Despite this, Jeff stood by the project, believing that preserving the truth and encouraging open dialogue was worth the personal cost. His story offers insight into the risks of confronting established narratives and underscores the power of filmmaking to revisit history, provoke discussion, and give voice to those who were previously overlooked.

 

Tune into Jeff’s story.

Check out the full episode in the links below.

You can also listen to the full episode on Apple and YouTube.

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If you would like to find out more on the story behind Mark and Richard’s FA of Wings of Steel, check out the video below:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mcqbXgPkbMY

 

Below is Jeff’s Youtube channel, if you are interested in what he gets up to:

https://www.youtube.com/@AccidentalProductions/videos