Podcast 16: James McHaffie – Soloing, Hard Trad & Historical Connections
James McHaffie – Soloing & Hard Trad
In this episode, Kevin Roet sits down with one of Britain’s most iconic and accomplished trad climbers: James McHaffie. Known for his cool head, precise footwork, and a jaw-dropping ticklist of over 200 ascents graded E7 and above, James—often affectionately referred to as “Caff”—has carved out a legendary reputation in the climbing world. But behind the numbers lies a thoughtful and deeply connected climber whose journey has been shaped just as much by mindset and history as it has by physical ability.
From the early days of soloing in the Lake District andWelsh hillsides to committing himself fully to the sharp end on bold and rarely repeated routes, James has developed not only an incredible level of technical skill, but a mental resilience that few can match. In this conversation, we dive into how his background in soloing laid the psychological foundation for pushing his limits in traditional climbing, and how that cultivated a mindset grounded in focus, discipline, and presence.
But James isn’t just about grades and gear—he’s a climber who climbs for connection. Connection to the rock, to the moment, and perhaps most notably, to the stories embedded in each route. He talks passionately about the history of the climbs he repeats, and how every line is a dialogue with those who came before. For James, repeating a climb is a way of stepping into the shoes—and the mind—of the first ascensionist, learning something not just about climbing, but about the people behind the lines.
This episode is both a masterclass in mental toughness and a love letter to the rich tapestry of British trad. Tune in for a raw, reflective, and inspiring conversation with one of the greats of UK climbing.
Tune in for a gripping chat with James McHaffie.
Check out the full episode in the links below.
You can also listen to the full episode on Apple and YouTube.
Come and join us on one of our Fear of Falling workshops in the UK, Sweden or Kalymnos, check out the link below:
Please check the link below:

