Episode 14: Common Fall Practice Mistakes Climbers Make (and How to Avoid them)
Author – Kevin Roet
For many climbers, fall practice is one of the most valuable ways to build confidence, improve trust in the system, and ultimately push grades or feel more comfortable with falling in climbing. But like any training tool, fall practice only works if it’s done correctly. Unfortunately, there are some common fall practice mistakes that can actually do more harm than good—both to your climbing progression and your mindset.
Below, we’ll explore the biggest pitfalls climbers face when practising falls. And how you can avoid them to make your training safer, smarter, and more effective.
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Starting Too Big, Too Soon
One of the most frequent fall practice mistakes is jumping straight into a huge whipper when you’re still uncomfortable with smaller falls. Think of it like strength training—you wouldn’t start with your one-rep max on day one. Start with controlled, smaller falls, and gradually work your way up to longer drops. Building step by step keeps fear manageable and progress sustainable.
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Poor Belayer Technique
Even the bravest climber won’t benefit from fall practice if the belayer isn’t switched on. A tight catch can slam the climber into the wall, while too much slack can lead to ankle-bashing or hitting ledges. Another common issue is belayers locking up in fear themselves. Proper communication, using assisted-braking devices, and ensuring the belayer is comfortable are key to avoiding one of the most overlooked fall practice mistakes. As well as understanding giving soft catches.
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Bad Body Position in the Air
When panic sets in, climbers often grab the rope, flail wildly, or kick out from the wall—all of which increase the risk of injury. Good fall practice means learning to keep your body relaxed, arms slightly out, knees bent, and eyes open. It feels counterintuitive, but staying loose helps you land the fall smoothly.
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Only Practice Indoors
Another subtle but significant mistake is treating fall practice as an “indoor only” activity. While gyms are a perfect environment to start, outdoor falls come with their own variables—slabby walls, ledges, uneven surfaces, and gear spacing. Transitioning fall practice outdoors (with proper supervision) prepares you for the real-world situations where it matters most.
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Falling While Tense
A close relative of poor body position is falling while tense. Many climbers instinctively stiffen up the moment they let go, which makes the impact harder and less controlled. Relaxation is key. If you can train your body to soften instead of seize up, you’ll reduce the risk of tweaks, bruises, or worse. You will also learn to be relaxed when falling, and may start to enjoy falling.
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Not Practising Enough
Doing fall practice once every six months isn’t going to cut it. Fear doesn’t disappear overnight—it fades with repeated exposure. One of the biggest fall practice mistakes is treating it as a one-off exercise, instead of a consistent part of training. Like any skill, confidence with falling comes from repetition.
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Forgetting the Mental Side
Fall practice isn’t just about the physics—it’s about training your brain. One of the biggest fall practice mistakes is approaching it mechanically without addressing the psychological patterns around fear. Breathing techniques and mindfulness all play an essential role in rewiring your response. Without the mental focus, you’ll never truly transfer the practice into confident climbing.
The Bottom Line
Done well, fall practice is a powerful way to expand your comfort zone and climb more boldly. But rushing, skipping steps, or ignoring the mental side will limit your progress. By avoiding these common fall practice mistakes, you’ll not only climb safer, but you’ll also discover that falling can become a tool—even enjoyable—on your journey upwards.
We will be running our Fear of Falling workshops here in the UK and Kalymnos in the next 3 months, check out the link below:
FEAR OF FALLING WORKSHOP
Or check out the book Climbing Psychology:
CLIMBING PSYCHOLOGY BOOK
Please check the link below:
