Episode 10: Performance Anxiety in Climbing

Author – Emma Twyford

 

What is Performance Anxiety in climbing?

Performance anxiety in climbing is linked to fear of failure and sometimes known as choking within sports. This really triggers our fight or flight response. Stress is often caused by high expectations and the added pressure of being observed by onlookers.

What causes it?

It has been ingrained in our society from a young age that failure is seen as weakness or just not good enough because everything has an end result, take school as an example – good grades or being on a sports team are seen as success, if we aren’t achieving those high standards because we haven’t found our ‘thing’ yet then we are deemed a failure.

List topics which can influence your performance anxiety in climbing:

• The ego
  • identity based on achievements
  • Comparison to others, big fish small pond syndrome
  • Extrinsically motivated
• Focusing on the end result/outcome goals
• Task is too big/ Negative thought process
• Mental capacity/life stresses

So, how do we move forward?

Stepping outside of our comfort zone

It shouldn’t be a mad dash to the finish line, it takes time to achieve true results and it is better to take it slowly and learn along the way. Think about “Dipping your toe in” analogy.

Ask yourself the question: “What do you really want out of your climbing?”

Think about the following topics and reflect on your own personal climbing

Goal setting – look at your motivations – primarily focus on intrinsic motivation

Outcome goals – these can add extra pressure to your performance, focus on learning

Performance – which parts of your performance have improved since last time?

Process – focus on the process, not the end result

Dream Goals – list where you would like to be in the long term

Realistic goals – are these goals realistic?

Positive self-talk – Focus on your strengths within climbing and build a specific statement around them

Change your language

It’s important to be realistic, there will still be a hard section/ a run out/ you will still have some nerves. All these thoughts are ok but it is changing these thoughts of the all-consuming impossible to possible. E.g. The crux section is hard for me but there is a very good rest beforehand and I’m good at recovering on routes so when I get to the crux I’m going to give it everything and try hard. If I feel scared of the fall I’m going to communicate with my belayer that the hard section is coming up and to watch me so I can try at my limit.

Be present

It’s no good focusing on the past, that has just happened. It’s no good focusing on the future, that is yet to come. Focus on what is happening in the moment, it is the only bit you can control at that time.

How to breathe?

• Equal parts breath before you set off on a climb
• Horse lips or trout put
• Sighing breath
• Bumble bee breath
• Power Scream

Time specifics

We can’t control how long these things take, don’t put a time stamp on the finish. Just keep showing up and putting a 100% in. Focus on what you can control, not what you can’t.

Still struggling with Performance Anxiety in Climbing?

If you want to delve into these topics in more detail then contact us through climb in flow!

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